Wednesday, 5 May 2010

Mendoza

So I met Naresh randomly at the bus stop and we got the Andesmar bus over to Mendoza. The journey seemed pretty standard and I had opted for the night bus to save on time. The midnight-early morning border crossing in the middle of the Andes was interesting but pretty straightforward. Arrived in Mendoza and went to Internacional Hostel (one of the HI chain) it was comfortable and I met some cool people there including the manager Ivan and Simon from Netherlands and spent some fun nights in the cosy bar (complete with wood burner). Mendoza, best known for it´s velvety Malbec, lies in the shadow of the Andes on the Argentinian side (North west) and is the heart of the winelands! Therefore, so I was told, a winery tour was compulsory!

We went on the organised hostel wine tour and to be honest it was pretty lame... ok it was cheap but you really didn´t get to taste too much and it felt a bit structured. The following day a group of us went out to Maipu on the bus (take note... you need the exact change in coins!) and went to see Mr Hugo for his cheap ($30 peso a day) bike hire! This was fantastic, we got several glasses of vino tinto before even clapping our eyes on the bikes, and then rather foggy eyed clambered on (amazingly, to working brakes) we chose our first winery destination on the provided map. First stop: Trapiche, and the largest exporter of wines in the region. The vinyard was housed in a beautiful renovated building complete with the old train tracks outside used for transporting the wine to Buenos Aires back in the day. After a full tour we sampled blanco (torrentes) tinto (syrah) and their reserve (petit verdot).

Next stop: Tempus Albus, and my favourite wine of the day! Here we had lunch and a selection of their suggested wines to taste, the best (and best of the day) being the Pleno Reserve. We drank and ate on the beautiful balcony overlooking the vines and andes in the distance. A short wobble across the road, was the smallest vinyard of the day Vina el Cerno - with only 11 staff it had an intimate feel as we sat amongst the grape vines to drain our last glass of the day. Back the hostel, an organised BBQ and general party night... great until the tequilla came out and ruined me!

Next stop, Buenos Aires and (hopefully) eventual spanish fluency!

Tuesday, 4 May 2010

Valparaiso

Valparaiso was a cool place. After a recommendation from a friend we decided to stay at Angel hostel (Calle Cumming)- nice place, friendly staff (Rodriguez and Marco) and very helpful. We arrived at the bus station and got on a bus that seemed like a school bus with loads of kids and a clown standing at the front complete with facepaints and baggy trousers... he showed us the way (ended up being the wrong way) to our hostel.



Went to a really nice restaurant where we spent about 30 minutes trying to decide what everything on the menu meant whilst consuming lots of vino tinto (red wine) and agregamon (bread and accompaniments). Then we went to a really nice bar called Sale de Arts Ritual with lots of mosaics (including a mosaic manequin) and great art work plus tasty sangria style drink with fruits in it.

Next day for Becky´s birthday we went to Vina del Mar on the metro. Had fish of the day at an authentic fishing eatery called San Pedros. walked around a bit, had a beer with the cutest puppy in a red jumper called ´Titan´and then wandered along the seafront to watch the sunset with a cake and cocktail at plush bar Enjoy the Mar. That night we went to an indie club called Mascara with Marco where I practiced my drunken spanish (better than sober actually).

On the final day I explored Valpo... the Ascensores (elavators) take the sting out of the multiple climbs up the hills to catch a glimpse of the ocean below the multicoloured houses - all beautifully painted in pastels of green, yellow, blue etc and adorned with the most amazing and unique grafitti art. Cerro (hill) Conception andAllegare were the best and I paused for a moment at the bottom of Almte Montte street to watch the local arts and have a coffee.

Next to Santiago and the long bus ride to Mendoza (10 hours)...

Santiago de Chile

Well I arrived to Santiago de Chile airport with very little español at my fingertips and somehow managed to get through the airport (which still reflected damage from the massive earthquake that hit at the town of Conception 270 miles south of Santiago). I arrived at the Andes Hostel (monjitas street, Bellas Artes) http://www.andeshostel.com/ a really nice place with a cute little bar super comfy beds, friendly staff and good location in bellas Artes... plus a really adorable roof terrace where you could drink beer and look out over the city... and constantly playing a really great radio station http://www.horizonte.cl/. I met some awesome people here and had a really great time. We headed to a good bar called Bar Constitution several nights, good place for reasonably priced drinks (especially Pisco sours) and meeting other travellers and locals. It was nice and discreet, just a simple grey door and blackboard outside with the name on (we really had to look for this place but it was worth it!) on Calle Constitution. It is open til gone 4am...

Went up the Cristbal to see the virgin mary statue at the top overlooking the city via the funicular trip up. Also went to see Pablo Naruda´s third house ´Choscana´ in Bellavista, a really interesting place taking themes from boats, the sea, various fruits and hidden meanings in pieces of art work. He designed and constructed the house as a gettaway for him and his lover (then to be third wife!) Mathilda so it reflects a lot of their relationship together. On my third day I visited the Bellas Artes museam (ok... worth a lok in if you are passing) and the really fantastic museo chileano de arte precolumbia http://www.precolombino.cl/es/index.php that contained lots of interesting precolumbian artefacts from throughout South America - including some huge wooden statue carvings and mummies using pre-egyptian embalming techniques (basically, removing the inards and stuffing the body with twigs and leaves).

There are a lot of dogs roaming the streets here, the strange thing is most of them lok like pedigrees so I´m not sure whether some have owners or not... anyway despite previously deciding against a rabies shot I befriended a lovely black labrodor style dog whom I called Óxo´. He was a loyal friend and followed us back to the hostel... maybe in the hope of some food.

Foodwise, Chile is good (cheaper than NZ and OZ thats for sure!) and the food consisted of lots of lomos (beef steak sandwiches) with loads of Palta (avacado) and Mayonesa piled on it.... plus I was introduced to wonderful empanadas - basically the pasties of South America... hot pastries filled with veg, cheese and ´carne´(meat) varying in quality and price but generally a cheap filling option. In my last few days I met up with Tom and Rich who I´d travelled with in Australia, plus their two new friends Becky and Britney. The five of us decided to hot foot it to Valparaiso for a look around.

Monday, 4 January 2010

Trekking in Northern Thailand

So, it's been while since the last post and I have almost finished my stint in Asia:

From BKK I headed up to Chiang mai on the night train - this was an interesting experience! Second class sleepers are not a great way to spend the night on your own as they just convert the chair into your bed in the corridor which people walk past. Thankfully all the local people on the train were really frioendly and I met a really nice lady called Ann who used to teach here 30 years ago and heard a lot aboiut her interesting life here - and surviving both maleria and dengue fever twice!

Arrived in chiang mai feeling a little disorientated and got a tuk tuk to Julie's guesthouse - really nice little hostel. Met Yasmin, John and RaHim here originally then Adam. Sopent the day catching up with myself mostly then in the evening went out with them for dinner - met Tori, Emma, Matt and Kim. Tori and Matt were from Lancaster too as was Kim so we all bonded straight away over our mutual love (?) of North West england. Went to the night market then a random club before making way back to the hostel.

Got up early the next day and hired bikes with Yasmin and John. We went to a couple of temples out of town at Wat Son Dork and Wat Umong. The second was set in beautiful forest with underground tunnels. We spent quite some time here. Everywhere there were interesting notes and phrases pinned to trees. There was also a big lake with turtles and massive catfish in it! Came back and I went off to my cooking class - my teacher Liu was very welcoming. We had a tour of the herb gardens seeing hioly basil, mouse shit (yes really) chilli, thai ginger and eggplant etc. After this we had a tour of the market and got some ingredients then came back for the class. I made thai green curry (including the paste)vegetable spring rolls, tom yum soup and pad thai chicken. Really enjoyed the class and Liu gave me a lift home at the end of the evening. That night went to 'full moon party' on the river side with some people from the hostel but didn't stay long as trekking next day.

Trekk: guide was Woody, interesting guy, very charismatic. Met Ros and Dan from UK, Claire and Ed, Jamie-Lee and Matt, Anton, Justin, Jane and Rodney and it was a really great group of people. Went first on an elephant trekk then walked for about 4 hours up and up and up into the junlge. We saw banana trees, looked down across the whole valley, crossed mountain streams and waterfalls, it was beautiful. We reached the top in time to see the sunset across the valley. The hilltribe village at the top were part of the Red Lahu tribe and welcomed us amongst them. Woody and one of the tribal elders made our food for us - thai green curry. We ate together in the bamboo hut, played several drinking games with some locals whilst the local kids sat by playing rock, paper, scissors. Sat outside around a glowing campfire, looking out at the moon and stars through the tree tops - beautiful.

Next day got up early, eggs on toast for breakfast then set off trekking again. Downhill, not to physically tiring but took a lot of manoevering to get down without faling! Stopped at a few waterfalls to swim and take in the views. Stayed the night at the waterfall camp where we had a campfire, ate thai red curry sat around the campfire chatting and playing drinking games it was a great night with the dogs and three little puppies sitting by us and so silent amongst the trees.

PAI: After Chiang Mai I headed to a little place called Pai with Emma, Matt and Tori up in the mountains about 3 hours north west of chiang mai towards the northern burmese border. The drive in itself was just amazing through the mountains winding around roads with a sheer drop on either side of you. Arrived in town and realised it was the king's birthday so extremely busy! Got accomodation at Twin Hut lodges down on the riverside. Went out for some street food and a few drinks to Jikko bar where we took over the music system. Over the next few days we explored the town and took in the views before setting off on the minibus from hell to Laos via the Friendship Bridge...

Monday, 30 November 2009

One week in...

So I've now been on the road for a full week! It's been great so far. The hostel at Lub D was great, met some really nice peopl and would recommend for a sociable scene (although some unsociable arse stole my camera battery whilst it was charging on my bed...) Bangkok was totally crazy but I enjoyed it for what it was:

Tuesday 25: temples, the Grand Palace (green budha) was pretty errrr grand. Lots of sights and sounds, enjoyed hearing all the prayers and the incense and everything. Visited this with Gerhardt and Douw from the hostel. From here experienced hao San road by both day and night - first taste of noodles was a good one. Got a tuk tuk ride down to Siam (which is a really nice district, feels much cleaner and generally nicer that the Khao San road area) then back to the hostel. Ended up that night after a few singha beers at Japanese Karaoke place in a little booth witrh Mark, Liz and Rich... several hours later, one tower and with very hoarse voices after belting out such classics as first cut is the deepest and backstreet boys we ended up in the craziest taxi ride ever... no no no no khao san road, ohhhhhhhh noooooooo! Hahaha. Ended up getting ther but an ear bashing from the taxi man all the way because he wanted to take us 'off meter'. A short time for dancing, and chilli meat stick the we were back to the hostel.

Wednesday 26: Had a lie in - jetlag hit! Had breakfast at my first street food stall and met a nice ex-pat guy who is now living and working here. Got some interesting insights into his life. Went with Liz to market near siam and got a nice bag with elephant on it. Market seemed more for locals and dingy in parts but was nice to see the local way (a couple of cool haberdashery shops and cobblers) Went from here to a shopping mall then went to try and find a camera/ battery as mines playing up. centralworld shopping plaza is crazy big, I got so lost. Walking bacvk through Lumpini park, saw local joggers (who go round and round and round...) and outdoor gym! Got lost again (are you seeing a trend here?!) but finally ended up at hostel. Went out for diner with Liz and Alex (both college of law baker mckenzie trainees) and had my first pad thai! Cheap charlies was good for a beer.

Thursday 27th: Liz and I decided to travel to Kanchanaburi together as we both wanted to go. street stall pork rice for breakfast then taxi to southern bus terminal. Buses every 15 mins and an aircon local bus for 77bht (1.50) coming in a two hours. was a comfortable and straightforward ride. Arrived mid-afternoon and got a ride to the main hostel stretch. CChecked in the jollyfrog guesthouse: 290 bht a night for the two of us in twin room (thats about 2.50 each a night) and the perfect location ride on the riverside with a floating raft with tables and chairs on it. Watched the sunset over the mountains and river. Pretty heavenly! Went on a stroll to the POW cemetary and Chinese cemetary. Went to apple guesthouse for dinner which was pricey (well, at 2quid a dish still can't complain!!) and average food - the food at the jollyfrog is better. Went to a couple of bars and had a first taste of the 10 bht whiskey lady's roadside bar,,, Amazing sitting on barrels by the side of the road drinking local samsong (whiskey) and coke for 20p!

Friday 28th: Booked a tour up to Erawan waterfalls, a 7 tiered waterfall in national park. It was amazing!! quite tricky getting through at parts and some scrambling required. Swimming in the waterfalls was lovely and there are little fish in there that eat the dead skin off your fet - a really odd but strangely relaxing sensation. Liz and I were glad we hadn't paid for this experiece in BKK as it was on ffer there. Lunch pad thai. Then a ride on the Death Railway buit by POWs before heading back for a shower. Sat and watched sunset with a chang beer then got ready for the sound and light festival. Thankfully and coincidentally we were in town for this reenactment of the bombing of bride on river kwai. We decided to walk down to late show at 9pm. Was all in thai so couldn't understand but there were some pretty impressive firworks and recreatons near the end. Went back down towards jollyfrog and to a few bars (whiskey lady again) played yeeee haaaaarh with som of the local guys we met (Joe, Day and another whose name I forget) and two teachers on a weekend away from BKK (cleo and orla) Went over the road to Sugars bar and discovered Day was also a couch surfer. Chatted away until the early hours (4am) - some really awesome people, hope to see again.

Sat 29th: Lazy day sorting stuff out (after lie in) Headed back to BKK and got a hotel on Khao san. Went to street stall for tea then a few bards Hippie de bar was good, gullivers then dance at 'the club'.

Sun 30th: Luz left for Koh Phagnan this morn so was on my own again. Tried to sort out my vastly stuffed bag. decided to walk down to station which took forever. Saw the golden mount which had cool view over city. Had a poorly tummy today and not been feeling great!! Oh well about time it hit me I guess. Got a new camera battery at Siam Paragon centre, the river boat back to Khao San. Off to Chiang Mai on the night train tonight, better go actually it leaves in a few hours. Hopefully a trekk in the next few days.

Tuesday, 24 November 2009

Balls in Bangkok

So, I have arrived here in Bangkok without too much drama. Despite previous phobia of flying my mnc-heathrow and hrow to BKK went smoothly. I think I am cured! Met a nice girl Emma on my Manc-LHR who was living in Wellingon, NZ and she offered me a place to stay with her. First steps onto Qantas I think showed me up as a novice however, as I ws unsure what to think of complimetary accompaniments. After meagre supper I fell asleep listening to my ipod and awoke to find my plates cleared, tray stowed and a blanket over myself, that's service! Met a nice sarf africn couple travelling to Laos before landing in Bangkok... thankfully banking up 5 hours kip I didn't feel too shabby. Cleared immigration and decided to navigate the buses, at 150 baht (about 3 quid) to the hostel and super organistion I thought it wasa safe bet. However, I got ahead of muself and left the bus one stop early in Silom... got incredibly lost and approached na 'britsh' looking couple who helped me to get even more lost over the course of the following hour. Finally, after a trip through the red light district (to be visited again later) I got to my hostel (Lub D) and it was a crazy few hours from arrival... met so many people I've forgottern all of their names, been sweaty as hell, drank several beers (local Singha is goooood) been to pingpong (don't ask for details!) a gig and several bars before getting back to the hostel. So far, so good! Probs hitting tourist hotspots tomorrow, fancy the floating market... and some food!!! I've been here nearly 10 hours and I've eatena bagof salmon flavour crisps. Need some hot tasty noodlesin my life... so hungryyyyyyyyy. mmmmmm. night night xxx